Bargaço, based by the late Leonel Rocha, is 50 years previous and is making ready to open a brand new home in Horto Florestal. The restaurant, now run by Ricardo and Patrícia Rocha, eldest sons of the creator of the model, has undergone a number of setbacks throughout these 5 a long time, such because the demise of the proprietor and head chef, closing of branches, pandemics and different perrengues. . However the home, which has all the time been synonymous with good meals, has remained agency and trustworthy to its founder’s objective: to honor Bahian delicacies based mostly on seafood.
|Lobster in butter sauce|
The menu, which brings new creations, maintains the identical high quality as the standard dishes accountable for the home’s success. Like the standard moqueca, whose recipe was created by Mrs. Hilda Rocha, 71, the proprietor’s widow. It was she who, collectively along with her husband, in entrance of the salon, commanded the kitchen of the bar that was to be named Bar do Garçom, however which ended up being Bargaço as a result of the painter made a mistake within the spelling. Whereas Hilda, now retired, ran the range, Leonel labored as a waiter, a commerce he discovered at Camafeu de Oxóssi and who, inspired by the boss, determined to start out his personal enterprise with the assistance of the chef, who offered crockery, cutlery and different objects in order that ex-employee to run his bar.
|Coquilles: Gratin cone with fish and shrimp filling|
Bargaço grew, grew to become synonymous with high quality and unfold all through the nation. Along with Salvador, the model had items in João Pessoa, Fortaleza, Brasília and São Paulo, which have been closed after Leonel’s demise. Solely the Recife department stays open and doing effectively. “With my father’s demise, though we have been already working with him, it grew to become tough to keep up so many companies, as a result of every part was purchased right here, portioned and despatched to the items. After he left, the companions began doing what they wished, and since we weren’t totally conscious of those exterior operations, we began to note that the standard of the meals was happening in these branches, so we determined to do away with them and concentrate on the headquarters the place we already had management of the operation, and in Recife, as a result of we’ve a relationship of mutual belief with our companion there till immediately, and it’s a success till immediately, says Patrícia.
|Fried tender crab: crispness and lightness|
The zeal for meals supply continues to be the flag of Leonel’s heirs. Ricardo, the eldest son, who began working together with his father on the age of 12, dedicates full time to the home, which because the pandemic has diminished opening hours, working from 12:00 to 18:00. The various menu could make the selection tough, however doubts disappear after we have a look at the fried tender crab, octopus shell or the particular prawns with garlic and oil.
|Particular prawns in garlic and oil|
The parts are beneficiant, particularly the tender shell crab – which you do not often discover anyplace – you possibly can eat together with your eyes closed. Very slowly, to take pleasure in it, stage by stage, feeling the softness and lightness of the delicacy that arrives on the desk so dry that it doesn’t even appear to fry. The particular shrimp wants no remark. It fills your eyes simply to see the dimensions of the animal! The squid shell, alternatively, is legitimate for many who, like me, all the time want the tender crab over the crab shell, which is less complicated to search out round.
After the starters, after all, comes the primary course. And that is the place the selection turns into tough. In spite of everything, how are you going to move up the shrimp and fish moqueca whose recipe has been trustworthy for 5 a long time! And no pepper, as demanded by Mrs. Hilda, who, though she is way from the kitchen there immediately, continuously reminds her kids to control the cooks to keep away from this barbarity. “The place have you ever seen peppers in moqueca?”, she shouts to today.
If it is lobster season, as it’s now, it comes out at Bargaço in several methods: French type, Thermidor, moqueca or stew. However would you like a tip? Order lobster with butter sauce. The hearty dish is nice for 2 to a few folks. And better of all, it comes out in all its magnificence, however already indifferent from the shell, which avoids the standard battle between the cutlery and the animal. To high it off, it comes with a number of slices of boiled and buttered potatoes, uncomplicated and ideal!
|Bananas, cashews, bananas and ambrosia: home made treats from the dessert buffet|
The 2 native items carry childhood recollections of immediately’s leaders. On the head workplace, it was the place the kids have been born and grew up after their dad and mom’ battle to run the enterprise. “I bear in mind, once I was nonetheless slightly woman, I used to stay in a playpen, following the actions of shoppers who more often than not praised my good conduct”, jokes Patrícia. The Horto home, which can host the brand new unit, was the place Leonel lived till the tip. The brand new unit will observe the identical idea as the primary workplace, together with the salon itself, which, like the primary workplace, will occupy the large veranda of the home, surrounded by greenery, with a wonderful view, situated within the Jardim Teresópolis condominium.
The menu will initially be the identical as the primary one, with home classics together with the entire fish baked within the oven, one of many favorites of the loyal clientele, and the Grilled Bargaço, which consists of lobster, fish, shrimp, greens and rice which has been an enormous success and opens up the novelty that the Rocha brothers intend to implement in Horto when the brand new home goes effectively: Grilled seafood kitchen. Again to the primary workplace, from the kitchen, now run by chef Marcio Bouças, solely desserts do not come out of there.
However, like the entire menu, it follows the maxim: “the antiquity is ready”. The various buffet of home made sweets, for instance, consisting of white and black cocadas, ambrosia, banana compotes, jackfruit, cashew and different fruits, is made by the identical household of pastry cooks who’re within the third technology, based on the creator’s recipe to the letter. That alone would justify ordering a mixture of a number of flavors. In spite of everything, we should respect custom.
Bargaço – @restaurantebargaco
Rua Antônio da Silva Coelho, No. 43, Plots 18 and 19, Jardim Armação.
Tel. 71 3231 1000